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If you are thinking of planting your garden during the autumn and winter, now would be a good time start looking around your area to help you select your choice of autumn foliage trees and shrubs.

URGENT ATTENTION
If we have humid weather this month,there could be an outbreak of fungus disease somewhere in your garden. Keep on checking every few days so that a small outbreak can be controlled before the disease becomes out of control.
KEEP A CLOSE LOOK AROUND THE GARDEN FOR PEST PROBLEMS THAT MAY BE DEVELOPING. A keen gardener will always try and keep ahead of pests before they create havoc and ruin the plant's splendour.

PESTS TO LOOK FOR THIS MONTH
Pear and cherry slug (a slimy black grub) is active in March, skeletonising leaves on these trees and ruining their appearance. Fortunately, Yates Success provides a low toxic and very effective solution to this problem.
Autumn's peak season for citrus leaf miner. (which causes twisting and curling on new Leaves). Control with regular applications of PestOil.

TIPS ON WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU BUY YOUR NEW PLANTS
Autumn's often recommended as the season for planting, and it's easy to understand why. Cooler temperatures mean that the soil stays moist and is far less likely to dry out. The ground deep below still contains a certain amount of warmth which will stimulate new root growth of the plants you have just planted. These plants still have plenty of time to make good growth before winter arrives. New plants will be well established in time to make maximum growth next spring.
You may think planting is straightforward - dig a hole and bung it in, but there are some general rules to follow if the plant's to have the best start.
A/ First, buy the plant when you're on the way home. Don't leave it cooking in the hot car while you finish your shopping.
Water them as soon as you get home, and keep them somewhere relatively cool.
C/ The next point may seem obvious, plant it. Don't leave the plant in the pot for months until you find that mythical bit of extra time, because it may not survive the delay.
D/ Select the plants position. Read the label so you know which conditions (sun or shade) the plant prefers.
F/ Improve the soil if necessary. If soil is poorly drained you may need to create a raised-up bed. If poor drainage is caused by clay, treat with Gypsum or water in Liquid Claybreaker and dig in some Compost as well.

ACTION TIME IN THE GARDEN
1/ Its time to buy spring bulbs. Be sure to plant them into a well-drained spot in the garden. But wait until the cooler weather arives and after the soil's cooled down. Before planting, dig in some Bulb Food. The best bulb choices for warm areas are freesias,jonquils, snowflakes and bluebells.
Tulips and hyacinths usually perform better after a few weeks of chilling in the bottom of the fridge (not the freezer!).
2/ Any garden expert will inform you that autumn is the best season for planting just about everything, except the most cold sensitive varieties.
3/ Now is the time to plant seeds of, Sweet peas, primulas, poppies, calendulas, pansies, violas, wallflowers and cornflowers are just some of the array you can select from for your spring display stands at the Garden Centres.
4/ Sow cool season vegies - broad beans, carrots,lettuce, peas and onions - into sunny beds. Plant garlic cloves in autumn for a summer harvest. Enrich the soil before planting with a slow release organic fertiliser, and some compost. If your ground is on the acid side, it might pay to add some Garden Lime.
5/ Autumn's the best season to start a new compost heap. Start by using the leaves that fall from deciuous trees in autumn. Sprinkle the heap with some Garden Lime to encourage favourable conditions for decomposition.
6/ Tidy up perennials (these are flowering plants that last for more than one year) after their flowering period's over. Cut off dead blooms and damaged leaves. Split up established clumps and move to new spots in the garden. Remove dead stems from agapanthus and other summer bulbs.
7/ After beans plants have finished cropping, chopp them up and dig the plants into the soil (where they'll add valuable nitrogen). Harvest pumpkins, and dry in the sun for storage.
8/ Insect pests are everywhere in autumn. Control with some of the newer, low toxic options such as Confidor, Pest Oil, Dipel or Success*.
9/ Weeds, too, are in full splendour in your garden. Don't forget the adage 'One year's seeding = seven years'weeding.' Cut back weeds to prevent them from developing seedheads. Spray with low toxic Zero, or paint with the no-need-to-bend Zero Weeding Brush.

TIME TO PRUNE THIS MONTH
Cut back Raspberry canes that have fruited over summer.
Split up and re-plant clumps of perennials such as Violets and Bergenias. Old woody root sections should be trimmed off and discarded.
Cut back perennials such as Shasta daisies, gaura (butterfly flower), verbascum, plectranthus and salvias which have started to look a bit tatty. Tidy roses and hedge plants.
Prune old flower heads from lavenders once the blooms have died. Never cut into old wood when pruning lavenders. The best rule is to just lightly trim the leafy growth at the tips. There are many new forms available to choose from, so if you are thinking of planting one or more, ask the garden experts for help.

FLOWERS TO SOW AT THIS TIME OF THE YEAR

Early autumn's the ideal time to sow (scatter the seeds across the soil) like those in the Yates Accent on White packet. Sowing these is a quick way to fill a garden bed with colour-themed flowers. Landscape planning's easy, too, because the seed comes in two sachets: one filled with low-growing plants like Violas and Candytuft, the other containing taller background plants such as Nigella and Gypsophila.
Autumn is time is when to think about pansies. It is so hard to make up ones mind with all the varieties on the seed stand. So allow yourself extra time to make up your mind.
VIOLAS
Pansies and violas are so mixed up that there's little point in worrying about their differences.
However it's generally accepted that violas have slightly smaller flowers that are less likely to be decorated with 'faces'. Violas bloom generously and, if dead flowers are removed, will continue flowering for months. Yates Viola Toyland, with its mix of bright-coloured blooms, can be grown in either pots or garden beds.
SWEET PEAS
Autumn is sweet pea planting time, but the tall-growing sweet pea varieties will need to have a support to grow on. A fence or established trellis that faces the sun is ideal, but if nowhere suitable's available, then construct a rough tepee with bamboo stakes or other rustic-looking materials.
Sweet peas can be grown from seed or bought as seedlings but they are best planted by seed in the ground where they are to grow. Select a sunny position where the soil is not acidic. A light dressing of garden lime can be added if the soil is too acidic, but check the soil pH first before adding lime.
Good drainage is important where you are planting the seed, and most of all don't over water the soil while you are waiting for germination. Sweet peas love a light pliable soil, so if you have a heavy clay soil, dig some Compost and Gypsum into the ground. Mix 50 grams of Complete 'D' per square metre into the ground two to three weeks before planting the seed.
One very important point to remember when growing sweet peas is to remove all dead blooms from the plants to ensure that they give a continuing supply of flowers.
Sweet peas picked and placed in a vase will brighten your home, and give the added bonus of fragrance to the house. Be sure to wait until most of the blooms have fully opened before picking a spray, because the flower buds usually won't open inside.
Go and have a look at the range of sweet pea seed on the stands and see this years display.
LOBELIA CASCADE MIXTURE
There are all sorts of Lobelias from all over the world, even Australia, but the undoubted favourites are the annual, low-growing lobelias that perform well in pots or as garden edgings. Lobelia seeds are tiny and should be lightly pressed into the surface of some Seed Raising Mix.
Water gently (use a mist sprayer if necessary) and cover with plastic wrap or glass to hold moisture on the surface of the mix. Transplant carefully after germination when the young seedlings are about 3 to 4cm high. Lobelia Cascade Mixture contains a selection of light blue, dark blue and white flowers.
Here are some tips for looking after seed:-
1/ Store the seed packets in a cool position until you are ready to use them.
2/ Check the 'sow by' date on the back. This gives a good indication of the life expectancy of the seed.
3/ Once the packet has been opened it becomes more difficult for the seed to remain in good condition. The secret, of course, lies in keeping the seed as dry as possible. It's a good idea to put it into a glass jar with a screw top lid. Even better, pop in one of those moisture-absorbing, silica gel sachets (like the ones that come with your new shoes).
Some seeds are notoriously short lived. This list includes salvias, gerberas, delphiniums and passionfruit. Onions, parsnips and spinach (true spinach, not silverbeet) are also on the short-lasting list. Other seeds can remain viable for a long time. We've all heard those tales of seeds found in ancient tombs that germinate soon after they're sown. Some of these stories are too far-fetched to be true, but other claims can be scientifically verified.
Silverbeet and beetroots, which are basically the same plant, have reasonably long-lived seeds. Their seeds have a corky coating that probably gives them some extra protection. Other long-lasting seeds are brassicas(cabbage, cauliflowers, rocket and Brussels sprouts), lettuce, radishes and tomatoes.

TIP ON RAISING YOUR SEED
RAISING SEEDLINGS IS FUN
It is now time to plant Pansy seed into the seedling boxes or trays. Fill the seedling boxes or trays with seed raising mixture and level the mixture approximately 1cm from the top of the trays. If sowing fine seed, gently firm down the mixture. The surface must be flat and smooth. Sow the seed as per instructions on the seed packet. Cover the seeds with seed raising mixture to a depth approximately that of the seed sown. Then gently water the tray with a fine spray to ensure even moisture. Make sure that you keep the tray moist but not wet.

DIRECT SOWING INTO THE SOIL
Prepare the garden beds where the seed are to be sown. Blend a seed raising mixture into the garden soil to approximately 5 cm in depth. Then sow the seed as per instructions on the packet.
Cover the seed with seed raising mixture and water thoroughly but gently. Pansies are such versatile annuals, they can be used to fill window boxes, form edges along pathways, cover the soil of large pot plants or just be grown in garden beds.

Broad beans - These are best raised from seed sown right where the plants are to grow. They are ideal seed for children to grow in the vegetable garden. The large seeds are easy for small fingers to handle. Don't over water the seed in the ground, otherwise they will rot away if the soil is too wet. Early Long Pod is a tall growing variety which is a prolific producer. Coles Dwarf has a lower profile, so its the best choice for strong wind areas in exposed garden beds.
Broccoli's the ideal vegetable for the home garden because it doesn't take up too much room and it can be harvested over a long period. When the large central head is cut, side shoots form which will then develop smaller sprigs for later harvest.
Keep a close look out for caterpillars and treat accordingly.
Cabbages grow well during the cooler months, as do Chinese cabbages. The latter will bolt to seed if temperatures get really low.
Spring onions - Are so much easier to grow than bulb forming onions. You can start picking them when they're quite small and leave some to develop thicker stems.

TIME TO THINK ABOUT THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
March is the month for sowing root vegies such as beetroot, carrots, parsnips, radishes and turnips. None of these vegies responds well to being transplanted, so you will receive the best results if they are sown directly into garden beds.

Dig in the remains of summer bean crops provided that they are not contaminated with fugus diseases. The nitrogen-rich plants will help enrich the soil.
Sow seeds for broad beans, spinach, leeks, lettuces, radishes, silver beet, Chinese cabbages, Brussels sprouts and more.
SALAD MIXES
Because lettuce is much less likely to go to seed now that the weather's starting to cool down, March is a great time of year to sow lettuce seeds. Salad Mix is a blend of popular lettuce varieties, while Mesclun Mix also includes other trendy salad greens such as chicory and corn salad.

GROW AND EAT YOUR OWN HEALTHY VEGETABLES
We've always known that green vegetables are full of vitamins, but we're now finding that many have other qualities that help to fight disease. For example, it's been discovered that the members of the oft-disparaged cabbage family contain natural chemicals that may help to prevent cancer.
Chinese cabbages do best in moderate autumn conditions so this is a good time to get them started from seed. Wong Bok forms a tightly-packed, cylindrical head, while Pak Choy is more open. Both need regular watering and feeding with Soluble Plant Food.
Any check in growth will cause the plants to bolt into flower and then form seeds, which will spoil their flavour.
BROCCOLI is the trendy branch of the cabbage family tree. Broccoli grows well during the cooler months, but look for a variety that is best suited to this time of year. For example, Winter Harvest and Shogun broccoli varieties have been bred to grow during the winter months and they flourish during the cold weather.
Broccoli grows easily from seed. Start by sowing your broccoli seeds into punnets filled with Seed Raising Mix and transplant them when the seedlings are a of good size. Once the seedlings are in place it's important to allow the plant to develop a strong, vigorous framework. The part of broccoli that's eaten is actually the immature flower bud, hence it follows that bigger, better flowers will form on larger plants. In cold districts it's suggested to sow broccoli seeds in summer, giving the plants time to make maximum growth before the onset of winter. By the time autumn has arrived it's probably wiser for cold climate gardeners to make up time by buying and planting broccoli seedlings. Plant into a rich, well-drained garden bed that's been improved with some old organic matter and some generous handfuls of organic pellets. Sprinkle some Gro-Plus Complete beside the rows just to make sure that the plants have everything they need to make good growth. Then, after planting, to help form that all-important framework, water broccoli every two weeks with nitrogen-rich Thrive.
Members of the cabbage family are often attacked by caterpillars, and broccoli is just as susceptible as its relatives. Success* is a naturally-derived insecticide that is able to penetrate into the broccoli plant and provide ongoing protection. Another popular pest control option is to dust the plants with Hortico Cabbage Dust. When using dusts, good coverage is critical for effective control.
Harvest broccoli (which is really just a cluster of tight buds) when the central head is well formed, before the individual flowers start to open. Make a sloping cut (this allows water to run off), picking a piece that's about 10 cm long. After the central head has been removed, smaller florets will form in the leaf bases down the stem. While these will never get to be as big as the main head, they'll extend the harvest period over some weeks. This long harvest makes broccoli an ideal vegetable for the home gardener.
For something a bit different, try the Chinese Broccoli 'Kailaan'. Also found in the Yates seed range, Kailaan forms a looser head of buds and should be harvested when a few of the pale-coloured flowers have opened.
Unlike European-style broccoli, the stem of Chinese broccoli is considered to be as important as the buds, and it has a sweet, gentle flavour. Chinese broccoli can be used in soups or mixed stirfries.
If you would like a recipe click on food from the Vegi Garden.
CARROTS
Even in warm areas carrots can be sown now. Why not try the Baby Carrot Seed Tapes? These make sowing easy because the evenly-spaced seeds come sandwiched between two layers of soft paper. Simply lay the seed strip out in a groove in the soil, cover and water. The seeds will germinate quite quickly at this time and the carrots will be ready for harvest within a matter of weeks. Sowing and growing carrots is a great gardening activity for kids. Carrots don't like being transplanted, so the best way to guarantee success is by sowing the seeds right where they're to grow. Yates Majestic Red is a premium carrot variety but, if your soil is shallow, try some of the short-rooted Baby carrot.

VEGETABLES IN THE GARDEN.
SILVERBEET just has to be the most versatile vegie in the kitchen garden. And it's a great choice for beginners because it's easy to grow from seed and suffers from very few problems. Yates has a choice of three different silverbeet – large-growing Fordhook Giant,long-cropping Perpetual and the attractive red-stemmed RubyChard.
Sow silverbeet seeds direct where they're to grow into well-prepared, moist soil. Water again and firm down. Good contact encourages moisture to travel from the soil and through the corky outer layer that surrounds the seeds.
Radicchio and Endive have a lot in common. We know them as salad vegetables with pleasant, but slightly bitter-tasting, leaves. Both are found in those popular salad leaf mixes that you buy (often at great expense) from the greengrocer's. But, because endive is green and curly, while radicchio looks a bit like a red cabbage, most people don't realise that they are forms of the same plant, or that they both belong to the daisy family. They are also variations of chicory, which is best known either for its edible roots or for the blanched white 'chicons' that we call witloof.
Endive Green Curled One look at its Medusa-like head is enough to see why it's been given this name: the deeply-cut leaves resemble a mass of tangled curls. Endive's sharp flavour provides a great contrast to bland-tasting lettuce, and it's an excellent source of Vitamin C. In fact, endive used to be grown in barrels on the decks of sailing ships to provide a ready source of scurvy-preventing Vitamin C. Autumn's a good season to sow endive. These plants seem to perform better in the cooler weather. Sow seeds straight into a prepared garden bed and keep them moist during their germination period. After the seedlings emerge, feed them regularly with Thrive Soluble Plant Food. This fast-acting fertiliser is rich in nitrogen, the plant nutrient which promotes plenty of leafy growth.
Radicchio was developed in southern Europe. It forms a much firmer, more lettuce-like heart than endive. Radicchio leaves vary in colour from green (with a bit of red veining) through to deep, full-blooded maroon. The colour is stronger when it's cooler so, though it can go in almost any time of year, Radicchio's perfect for autumn sowing and winter growing. Start radicchio seeds in trays of Seed Raising Mix and transplant carefully when the plants are big enough to handle. Keep the plants well watered but, as the heads form, reduce the risk of fungal rots by applying water just at the base of the plant rather than over the top. Spread some mulch around the base of each plant to retain moisture. But keep it at least 5cm away from the stem of the plant. You can begin harvesting the bitter-sweet leaves while they're quite young. Even when small, they're decorative enough to be used as a garnish, or they can be tossed whole into a mixed salad. Try a combination of radicchio, fetta cheese and avocado, drizzled with a good dressing. The bite of the radicchio contrasts beautifully with the salty taste of the fetta and the mild creaminess of the avocado. Eventually, as they mature, each radicchio plant will send up a tall flowering shoot. Try to let some plants flower: the cobalt blue daisies give stunning, though short-lived, colour. If you then allow the seeds to develop, they'll find their own new homes in the garden. Be a little wary in cool areas, as the plants may make themselves so at home they can become like a weed.

FEEDING YOUR SEEDLINGS
Before planting any winter vegetables (such as broccoli, spinach and Brussels sprouts) prepare the bed by digging in some Gro-Plus Complete. Vegetables are very hungry (often the term used is 'gross') feeders and they'll really appreciate being able to draw on this solid base of nutrients.

REMEMBER to pick your mature pumpkins when the stems are dry and beginning to shrivel. Leave the pumpkins to bake in the sun for a couple of weeks and then store them in a dry, cool spot. Check regularly for signs of damage to the outer skin.

TIME TO WORK IN YOUR AUTUMN GARDEN
This is probably the time of year when more flowers can be planted than any other time. The list includes cinerarias, cornflowers, Dianthus, forget-me-nots, hollyhocks, Linaria, lobelia, nemesia, pansies, poppies, primulas, snapdragons, violas, and many more. The two most important groups of flowering plants that should go in now are sweet peas and bulbs.
Feed citrus and subtropical fruit trees with a Citrus Food or Dynamic Lifter. Clear away weeds and grass at the base of the tree and spread a layer of organic mulch over the root area Do not place against the trunks.
Divide your perennial plants and distribute to another part of the garden.
After their leaves have fallen, spray deciduous fruit trees (e.g. peaches) with a copper fungicide (such as easy-to-dissolve Yates Fungus Fighter). A good coverage will clean up the remains of summer pests and diseases.
African violet leaves are covered with fine hairs that are excellent dust catchers and a layer of dust not only spoils the look of the plant, which interferes with its function. Leaves can be cleaned by brushing gently with a soft child’s water coloured paint brush.

GROWING BULBS IN POTS
You can just about grow any bulbs in containers, providing that you select varieties which are not going to grow too tall and have comparatively neat growth.
Hyacinths, tulips and dwarf daffodils are most popular, and all will benefit from a few weeks in the fridge (not freezer) before planting.
Commence by choosing a wide top pot,which is not too deep (e.g. a Yates Tuscan bowl).
Fill up with a well draining Bulb Potting Mix and then add some Bulb Food. Plant your bulbs quite high up in the potting mix. Although this goes against the usual planting rules, it won't matter because the bulbs will be discarded once their display's finished.
Water the mix well, drain and then place the pot into a cool, dark cupboard or move it to a shady position in the garden and cover with another pot of similar size. Keeping the pot in the dark helps it to grow the best possible root system before the flower starts to emerge.
Inspect consistently and once the flower shoot is a few centimetres tall, slowly and gradually move the pot into more light. With this action, the flower will produce a good strong stem.
After flowering, most potted bulbs are completely exhausted and should go into the compost.
But if you're determined to try and save them for next year, they can be carefully transplanted into a garden bed, so do not disturb the roots while the foliage is still green.