The literal meaning of the word Bonsai is "planted in a tray".
The art of Bonsai established in China as the collecting of naturally stunted trees from the wild and growing them in dishes. The hobby was quickly embraced by the Japanese and today they are the real masters of this ancient art. The general idea is to recreate in miniature form a mature tree as it might be found in nature, a living scaled down replica of the original plant. Taking care of bonsai is comparatively simple and a abundance of enjoyment, but however there are some interesting individual guidelines you should know.

HERE IS A FEW SIMPLE HELPS TO GET YOU STARTED

Position
Bonsai are essentially outdoor plants commanding a position open to all aspects of the weather, fresh air, sun and rain. Its location needs only to be changed in the Summer when part shade will be required to protect from burning in powerful sun. Although they are outdoor plants, they can be brought inside for display. They can be kept inside the longest in Summer, for up to several weeks in a position with filtered sun and fresh air. In the Winter bonsai should be kept inside no more than a few days at a time. The only exception are plants which are normally used as indoor plants. ie. Ficus etc. (Photo on right, Ficus retusa)
REMEMBER Bonsai should for the most part of their time be grown outside. Shelves and benches will show them off, but they can be kept on balconies or roofs. Their requirements are simple, water and sunshine. They should, however, have some protection from the brightest sunshine and from hard frost during the winter.

Watering
The most common reason for bonsai plants dying is usually due to lack of water. Bonsai must be kept moist at all times. Bonsai dishes being so shallow can dry extremely quick and so the soil must be checked regularly, particularly during the Summer when daily watering is essential. During the hot days they may require watering twice a day.. A beneficial method of assuring your bonsai will survive in very hot weather or while you are on holidays, is to sit the pot on a tray of pebbles which are sitting in water.

PRUNING YOUR BONSAI

Pruning above the ground
This is where the real enjoyments of bonsai can be found. When pruning your bonsai, you are shaping it and it will now become your creation. Branches that may need removing are those growing in towards the main trunk, growing straight down or those that hide the main trunk Remembering that a major feature of any bonsai is its trunk.
For most trees I would suggest that you allow any new growth to develop for a month before pruning back. To maintain the current shape of your bonsai, simply pinch out the tips of new growth.

Pruning and Trimming below the ground
Root pruning at this stage will be unnecessary, but always remember to repot at least yearly to retain a healthy bonsai. Root pruning is necessary when the tap root becomes too large for your pot, thin this down so that the roots fit comfortably into your pot making sure you have left sufficient feeding roots (normally fine roots horizontally to tap root) for the tree to thrive. Always pay particular attention to watering after this exercise.

REPOTTING

Repotting should only need to take place after 1-3 years for fast growing plants and 2-5 years for conifers, depending on variety.
Repotting is carried out to provide fresh soil and to also prune the roots if they have grown into a solid mass. Pruning the roots will stimulate the growth of fresh new roots, provide room to add fresh soil and help to stunt the bonsai top growth.

1/ Remove the plant from the pot and wash most of the soil away from the roots.
2/ Cut off approximately one third of the roots and replace back into the original or a new pot with fresh soil.
If you require your bonsai to grow bigger, replace it into a larger pot. Repotting should be carried out in Winter when most plants are dormant or at their slower growth rate time.

FERTILISING

As your bonsai grows it will take food from the soil. To maintain a healthy plant you will need to replace this food. Organic fertilisers are the best, such as fish emulsion or slow release products such as AUSSIECOTE or Osmocote. As your bonsai is growing in a small pot, only apply half the recommended measures for pot plants. Fertilising is best carried out in Spring and Autumn. Do not fertilise a for few weeks after repotting or if the soil is dry.

WIRING

Wiring is a way of training a bonsai to a desired shape. Winding copper or aluminium wire around a branch or the trunk you can move it into any position you wish, effectively creating a whole new shape if desired.

Check the wire regularly to make sure it is not cutting into the branch. The wire should only be left on until the branch has grown into its new position and then carefully unwound or cut off.
All these factors help to make and maintain a successful bonsai exhibit.
There are many differing opinions on how to grow and what makes a good bonsai, but all bonsai have several things in common. As the pot is small the root growth is confined, in turn, the foliage and growth is restricted. The rest is all up to your individual ideas, pruning, shaping, wiring, etc.
Every bonsai will have an individual unique character all of its own. Your bonsai will become your creation, so treat it and enjoy it as such. The older it grows, the more valuable it will become to you. In Japan it is not uncommon to find trees hundreds of years old.

Bonsai make excellent gifts and if grown appropriately, they will be a gift of life for someone to have during their lifetime, which can then be passed onto the next generations.

RAISING YOUR BONSAI FROM SEED

Raising Bonsai from seed that you have collected yourself can be fun.
Go to a friends or your garden and collect seed from healthy trees and shrubs making sure they are ripe and mature. The seed can be placed into a paper bag and stored in a cool position until you are ready to use them.
Be sure to label each variety and place in separate packets.

Raise your seeds in a seed box or shallow pot containing a good seed raising mixture.. When sowing certain seed in winter, place the sown boxes or pots outside in the shadiest and coldest part of the garden. Specific seeds will not germinate until they have been subjected for some weeks to low temperatures and humid conditions similar to those which occur in nature after they drop from the parent plant and are covered with fallen leaves and other forest debris.
An alternative method is to stratify seeds by mixing them with slightly moist sand and keep the mixture in a closed but not completely airtight jar in the refrigerator. A temperature range of 1-5 degrees C ( 34 - 40 degrees F ) is generally suitable.
After 4 -6 weeks move the seed pans to a warmer temperature area to germinate, covering up the container with brown paper to keep out most of the light. Some will start to grow very quickly and this is the time to remove the cover, some other species may take a further 10 weeks or more to germinate
For sowing at other times either soak the seed in tepid water for 24 - 48 hours prior to sowing or use the 'Fridge Method' (placing the seed just above the crisper), remembering to keep the soil moist at all times for a successful germination.
When large enough to handle select the best seedlings and pot them up. Allow to grow unchecked for the first year.
When the seedlings are the right size you can the move the plants to their small containers. Now you can begin careful pruning, taking care to stop the leader but allowing for the natural shape.

Why not join your local BONSAI CLUB?